Between Winter & Summer – Mount Jefferson in May
by Amy Patenaude
Outdoor/Ski Writer
Hiking in the White Mountains in the spring can be tricky if not just plain horrible. The snowmelt coupled with the falling rain makes fording brooks and rivers difficult if not impossible.
Where the snow has melted away the trails are muddy. So, we try to choose wisely where to go or wait for better weather to arrive.
Finally a break in the wet weather and Danielle wanted to go up Mount Jefferson.
It was 37 degrees and we parked at the Ammonoosuc/Jewell Trailhead parking lot on Base Road below the Cog Railway. Jefferson Notch Road is still gated and won’t be open until all the frost dries up.
To reach the Caps Ridge Trail we started up the Jewell Trail and we were thankful for the footbridge over the roaring Franklin Brook. We then turned up the Boundary Trail, it follows a straight line between the unincorporated townships of Chandler’s Purchase and Thompson & Meserves Purchase. We had a challenging rock hop across the high waters of Clay Brook.
We’d hiked to the end of the trail where it meets Jefferson Notch Road about half way up to the height of land. The road walk was dry, muddy and in a few places still snow covered. This route from the parking lot to the Caps Ridge Trailhead is 2.6 miles according to the AMC White Mountain Guide.
At the start of the Caps Ridge Trail we encountered rotten snow for our first minute of hiking and then it disappeared and didn’t return until we reached the granite view ledge with the glacial potholes. The sun was bright and it was a fine clear day. We hiked in just our shirts until we reached treeline. The Caps were dry and we scrambled up and over the rocks. It wasn’t easy.
At the intersection of the Cornice Trail we stopped for a snack. I dug all around in my pack and all I could find was my PowerAde and Water. I couldn’t find my lunch bag, duh, I left it in the car. Luckily for me Danielle had an abundance of treats stashed away in her pack that she was willing to share. We put on our jackets and kept them on, we noticed we could see our breath.
We made good time and stuck with our plan for Danielle to redline the Cornice Trail and, if possible, to circumnavigate the rock pile that is the summit cone of Mount Jefferson. If it weren’t for the cairns we’d never know where the trail was on this rocky slope. About halfway to the Castellated Ridge we started crossing patches of snow. We carried our snowshoes on top of our packs, but who wants to stop and put on snowshoes for 50 feet, we could handle a post hole or two.
“I can’t get out,” I heard behind me and where I had just stepped there was Danielle up to her hips sunk into the snow. She was pulling so hard that she was afraid she was going to lose her boot. I went back and dug her out using my pole and my hands.
The snow patches got bigger as we neared Edmands Col but fortunately we experienced no more super post holes.
I had two extra pairs of gloves and I gave a pair to Danielle. We put them on and tied our wet gloves on our packs to dry.
The wind was ripping through the Col and we ducked behind some rocks and took a good break. We put on our warm jackets and since the wind had picked up we really needed them to keep warm (back home I looked up the weather at that time on Mount Washington and they reported it was in the low to mid 20s with winds gusting up to 50 mph).
We decided to continue around the mountaintop and cross what was left of the snow fields covering the Gulfside Trail. The wind was cold but the sun was hot on the snow. We could made good steps. If we’d tripped we would have sunk into the snow instead of sliding down Jefferson Ravine. We wouldn’t have attempted this crossing if the snow had been firm or icy.
We enjoyed the view ahead of the Great Gulf and Mount Washington and looking behind us down into Jefferson Ravine and Mount Adams. No one was in sight anywhere and no cars on the auto road. We couldn’t have been happier.
When we reached the Jefferson Loop Trail we went up the 3/10ths of a mile up to the summit and then back down the same way. We didn’t spend anymore time on the summit than it took to take a few photos because it was too chilly to stop moving and it wasn’t easy to stay on our feet because the wind was gusting more strongly.
Back on the Gulfside Trail it felt like we were headed home when we turned onto the last section of the Cornice Trail.
When we were back to the Caps Ridge Trail we completed our circle and we began our climb down. The Caps are rugged and steep and I slid on my butt a few times getting down. Even in the summer this is a difficult trail; it isn’t for people scared of heights or afraid to scramble on rocks.
As we lost elevation it was noticeably warmer and we shed our jackets.
Below treeline we decided to help clear the trail. We were quite amused and pleased to drag a broken tree top into the woods that would have made a fine large Christmas tree. We tossed too many limbs and sticks off the trail to count. There were some big trees that would require an ax to remove and a few hours of effort that surely will give the trail maintainer a workout. All and all the trail was pleasantly passable and soon every patch of snow will be melted away.
We retraced our way down Jefferson Notch Road, up the Boundary Trail and successfully recrossed Clay Brook.
Back at the car my lunch bag was sitting on the seat. After we took off our boots and changed into dry clothes we split my chicken salad sandwich and ate my chocolate bars. A perfect ending to a 14 mile super day!
Have Fun.
Amy Patenaude is an avid skier/outdoor enthusiast from Henniker, N.H. Readers are welcome to send comments or suggestions to her at: amy@weirs.com.
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