Hiking The Pemi Trail – Franconia Notch

PHOTO: Yours truly and Bria next to the rather large trail sign near The Basin. The Pemi Trail is 5.5 miles long but can easily be broken up into sections starting from the Basin or the Lafayette Place Campground.

by Amy Patenaude
Outdoor/Ski Writer

At the top of Franconia Notch is Profile Lake, the headwaters of the Pemigewasset River. The Old Man crumbled to the floor of the Notch in the early hours on May 3, 2003. His profile no longer reflects upon its waters but forever Profile Lake honors his memory. There is a nice accessible path to the Historic Site and the memorial Profile Plaza on the shore of the Lake below Cannon Cliff.
But there is also a splendid hiking trail that begins at the Old Man Historic Site and Profile Plaza parking area. To reach the parking area from I-93, take exit 34B, bear left at the sign before reaching the Cannon Mountain Tramway.
The trail begins next to the large Pemi Trail sign by climbing up a cut granite stairway. What a fabulous trail beginning before entering the woods!

After a small climb the trail descends and then follows the undeveloped west shore of Profile Lake. The trail is rough with big granite rocks that key from the floor of the lake up the slope of the mountain. It is more like a fisherman’s path than a maintained trail.
Bria and I enjoyed walking close to the water. The weather was misty and cloudy but the view of the other side of Franconia Notch up to Eagle Cliff filled our eyes and hearts. We didn’t meet anyone here on the path but there were a good number of people at the outlet of the Lake. There is a footbridge at the outlet that makes it possible to walk a loop using the Pemi Trail and bike path.
The Pemi Trail travels along the banks of the humble beginnings of the Pemigewasset River between the bike path and the I-93 Parkway. The trail sometimes crosses the bike path and sometimes it is in view of the cars zooming down the Notch. Surprisingly it often feels isolated and remote.
Wildflowers were opening up and it was delightful to see them. Bluebead and Bunchberry blossoms were numerous. Bria excels at finding and identifying wildflowers.

From the parking lot to the Lafayette Place Campground is two miles distance. We crossed over wetlands on log bog bridges, some in good shape, others not so much. Adjacent to the trail there is a wide beaver wetland area that opens up a unique view of Cannon Cliff. The trail travels down the notch with some small ups and downs along the way. The trail is marked with blue blazes that seem to be abundant and yet sometimes just disappear.
The Pemi Trail continues through the Campground and we thought it was interesting to see all the neat campsites and how people camp. We saw trailers and pop-ups and a couple of little tents. Then the trail entered back into the woods. In a while we met a family with two small children walking together up the trail. The only people we met on the trail until we reached the Basin.

In another mile or so the river got wider and the riverbed was lined with smooth granite. We knew we were nearing The Basin. The popular natural attraction is a large granite pothole in the middle of the river, nestled above and below by lovely cascades. Even on this cool misty day the place was packed with admirers. Bria had only been to the Basin in quiet winter when we xc-skied down the bike path last winter and she was stunned by the size of the crowd. We hustled by and continued down the trail. There were even people at the site of the Baby Flume just below The Basin.

We continued to hike until we found a nice quiet ledge alongside the River to take a break. We just enjoyed watching the water flow by.
Due to drought conditions the crossings of Cascade Brook and Whitehouse Brook were easy. Little water was flowing. But beware these brooks can roar after a heavy rain.
After we rock-hopped across Whitehouse Brook the Pemi Trail blue blazes became white blazes as we now followed the Cascade Brook Trail, part of the Appalachian Trail. The Cascade Brook Trail led us under both lanes of the Parkway and to the Whitehouse Bridge on the bike path. We turned right down the bike path still following the river downstream for about ten minutes before turning right onto the last half mile of the Whitehouse/Pemi Trail.
We had left Bria’s car at the southern terminus of the Pemi Trail at the hiker’s parking lot, which is just north of the Flume Visitor Center. The big trailhead sign read 5.5 miles to Profile Lake.
We enjoyed our three hour walk along the River.
Have Fun.

hike NH